The Flavors of Upper Mesopotamia: What and Where to Eat
Sanliurfa’s cuisine is a spicy, aromatic, and rich reflection of its multi-layered history. In this city, food is not just a meal; it is a tradition, an art form, and a symbol of hospitality. Here is your ultimate guide to the best dining experiences in Urfa.
1. The Legendary Urfa Kebab
Unlike the spicy Adana Kebab, the Urfa Kebab is known for its milder but deep flavor, seasoned with local purple peppers known as Isot.
- Where to try: Look for historic local “Ciğerci” (liver specialists) near the Old Bazaar (Gümrük Hanı) or high-end restaurants like Cevahir Han for a more refined experience.
2. Authentic Çiğ Köfte
Sanliurfa is the birthplace of Çiğ Köfte (kneaded bulgur with spices). Traditionally made with raw meat (though now often vegetarian in public restaurants for health regulations), it is hand-kneaded for hours to reach perfection.
- Pro Tip: Try it during a Sıra Gecesi event to see the authentic preparation accompanied by folk music.
3. Liver Breakfast (Ciğer Kebabı)
In Urfa, people eat liver for breakfast. It is a local ritual. Small cubes of lamb liver are grilled over charcoal and served with fresh mint, onions, and lavaş bread.
- Where to try: Ciğerci Aziz Usta or the small stalls inside the Haşimiye Square.
4. Lahmacun: The Turkish Pizza
Urfa-style Lahmacun is distinct because of its thin, crispy dough and the heavy use of Isot and garlic, giving it a darker, richer color than versions in other cities.
5. Sweet Endings: Şıllık and Kadayıf
You cannot leave the city without trying Şıllık Tatlısı, a unique local crepe-like dessert filled with walnuts and syrup. Also, the region’s pistachios make the Billuriye and Kadayıf world-class.
- Where to try: Gümrük Hanı is the best place to enjoy your dessert with a cup of Mırra (strong, bitter local coffee).